Day 64-68 - All over the place - San Carlos

Photo: On the train heading up to Copper Canyon.

We battled the banditos and won! No...nothing so dramatic...although it would be a great story, wouldn't it?

Last blog was from Teacapan....the story from there:

Day - 64 - Teacapan to El Fuerte: We really wanted to see the Copper Canyon area so headed out early. We went through some beautiful agricultural areas that mainly grown corn. There were literally miles and miles of corn fields for as far as the eye could see and the reason it can be grown so well is lots of irrigation. We arrived at our campground about 4 pm and met the owner--Bill from Colorado. Bill has a bit of a drinking problem and I think if you can get him early in the day, you can better understand what he's saying...it get more and more difficult as the day goes on. A nice guy regardless though and he told us about a tour to the Copper Canyon that he arranges which suited us exactly. It was 3 days, 2 nights, hotel & meals included and you go up by train. We were surprised to see armed guards on the train--up and back--and it turns out that bandits had robbed the train about 10 years ago so now they have guards on all the trains, although there hasn't been a repeat of any trouble. Tours of the area were included so we signed up and were prepared to be awed.

Day 65-67 - The taxi picked us (and the couple in the RV next to us) up at 8 am and we headed for the train station. We were going on the 1st class train vice the 'Chicken Run' and had a wonderful 7 hr trip up to El Fuerte--the beginning of the canyon system. The hotel was lovely--a series of motel-like rooms and separate little villas. We had one of the villas with kitchen, nice big king-size bed, and loft above with another double bed. However, once supper was over and the sun went down, we realized that we were 7,000 ft above sea level....it was cold...but we'd been forewarned so had some warm clothes. El Fuerte is kind of a crappy little town but has capitalized on the canyon and local natives...big time. This hotel is $150 night and without the former two draws, wouldn't exist.

The next morning the four of us were taken for a tour for the entire day by our own guide. One of the highlights for all of us was getting up close to the Tatahumara people...the original natives in that part of Mexico. There are about 60,000 of them and they remind me of the lost tribes of the Amazon. There are very shy, live with no amenities, and like to live in 4-8 family groups in the remotest parts of the canyons. Unfortunately, the 'civilized' life has caught up to some of them but although they live in the same was as their peers, some of them have allowed tours to visit their homes to see how they live. The price for this is that they can display the handmade baskets and other things they make hoping the people on tours will buy them.

I can't begin to tell you what this society is like....it was distressing and amazing at the same time. Distressing....not because of the way they live....but more that I felt it was an intrusion for me to be there. Amazing....it is living at the most basic level and yet they desire nothing more than what they have. The really interesting part is that they often used the many caves as a portion of their home and will build small rooms, ie for sleeping, inside the cave or if a smaller cave, close of the front of it with whatever materiel is available. There are no TV, salellite dishes, phones, electricity, running water etc.

They never speak except to say "10 (whatever amount) pesos" if you ask them how much one of their baskets are. They are shy beyond belief and their children are the quietest, happiest kids I've ever seen. Some of the smallest children will sit beside their Mothers all day while they are weaving their baskets and displaying their things at a market. I took some of the most wonderful photos of them (after getting the guide to ask permission) and usually told the guide to tell them they had such beautiful faces that I would be honoured to be able to take their photo.

The canyon is wonderful...some parts of it are wider and deeper than the Grand Canyon. The difference between the two is that the Copper Canyon is 'green'...there is vegetation whereas the Grand Canyon is more rock. We really enjoyed the trip and the final morning our guide took us to some of the best vantage points to view the canyon. It was back on the train after lunch for the trip home.

Today we made San Carlos our destination...the last night in Mexico. We really hadn't heard much about it and when we arrived....WOW....it is so beautiful that it just took our breath away. If we didn't have other places to go we would stay here for a few days but time is getting short and we have to be on our way. The RV park is right across the road from the beach and we've already been wandering and collected the day's quota of shells. This park is the very best we've been in for a long time and has all the amenities we'd find in a park in the US or Canada. San Carlos is mainly a fishing village but has become very popular with tourists and has the cleanest streets we seen in Mexico. We'll take a quick drive through the main part of town before we leave but this is definitely a 'return to' destination.

Many of the big RV parks on the Pacific coast are closing and selling their property for condominium construction. It's sad...as someone said "it's a whole way of life that's disappearing". I'm not sure about that but there are lots of crappy parks still going strong but perhaps it's just a matter of time before they are gone as well.

I sad to be leaving Mexico...it has been warm and wonderful...but I'll be glad to get back to more familiar territory and not have to wonder what I've said "Si" to. We were stopped at one of the many drug inspection places and the guard asked us something...I have no idea what...but we just kept saying "Nada" (nothing) is case he was looking for ripe fruit or something. Anyway, he made a circuit around the LuvMasheen with some sort of electronic device and then waves us on our way.

We expect to have a long wait at the border crossing in Nogales tomorrow 400 kms from here...some people have said 2-3 hrs. They go through the van and take all the contraband food and stuff, and then we have to turn in our visas and car permit and then find a park to spend the night so tomorrow will no doubt be a long day. However, it's on to the Grand Canyon and Las Vegas so lots to look forward to.

Until next time, lots of love to you all. We are thinking of you and missing you. Happy Birthday to brother Corky who probably thinks I forgot about him.....but he's unforgetable and I love him so much. xx